Leopard Gecko Feeding: Schedule, Diet, and Why They Stop Eating

Leopard geckos are famously easy eaters most of the time, which makes it stand out when one suddenly refuses food. Here's what a real feeding routine looks like, and how to tell a normal pause from something that needs attention.

For the rest of their care needs, see our complete Leopard Gecko care guide.

Feeding Schedule by Age

• Hatchlings and young geckos: Daily, offering insects sized around a quarter inch.
• Juveniles: Daily or every 1 to 2 days, working up to slightly larger prey.
• Adults (once the tail is as thick as the neck): Every 2 to 4 days is the range most sources land on, some say every other day, some say every 5 days once the tail has fully filled out. There's no single settled number here, so watch the gecko's body condition rather than chasing an exact schedule.

Offer just a few insects at a time, or let the gecko clear what it wants in about 15 minutes. Insects should never be bigger than the space between the gecko's eyes. Leopard geckos are crepuscular hunters, so an evening feeding tends to match their natural activity better than a morning one.

What Leopard Geckos Eat

They're obligate insectivores, meaning insects only, no fruit or vegetable purees like a crested gecko might get. Commercially raised (never wild-caught) crickets are the usual staple, rounded out with dubia roaches, discoid roaches, mealworms, superworms, and black soldier fly larvae (sometimes sold as calciworms or Phoenix worms). Captive-bred hornworms are safe and appear blue-green. Never feed wild hornworms, they're bright green and toxic, so buy only from a reptile supplier, not your backyard.

Gut-loading and dusting matter more than the feeder insect choice itself. Feed insects a nutritious diet, fresh vegetables, gut-load powder, for 24 to 48 hours before offering them to your gecko. Then dust with plain calcium at most feedings, more often for juveniles than adults. Alternate in calcium with D3 a couple times a week if your setup doesn't include meaningful UVB exposure, and add a reptile multivitamin about once a week. Keep a shallow dish of plain calcium in the enclosure at all times as an optional backup. Use feeding tongs to control portion size and keep insects from burrowing into substrate.

Safe Treats and Foods to Avoid

Waxworms and superworms are fine occasionally, waxworms are especially fatty, so limit them to a couple times a week. Superworms are adults-only, their size and hard exoskeleton aren't appropriate for juveniles.

Fireflies are genuinely toxic to leopard geckos and should never be fed. Never feed wild-caught insects of any kind, pesticide and parasite risk isn't worth it. And never offer fruit or vegetables directly, a leopard gecko's digestive system isn't built for produce the way an omnivorous reptile's is.

Why Leopard Geckos Stop Eating

1. Brumation. A natural winter slowdown triggered by cooler temperatures and shorter days. Expect reduced activity and appetite, with brief waking to drink.
2. Shedding. Many geckos go off food for a day or two before and sometimes after a shed. Appetite returns once it's done.
3. A temperature that's too low. This is one of the most common fixable causes. Leopard geckos can't digest food properly if the warm side isn't warm enough, aim for roughly 88 to 92°F on the warm side and 72 to 78°F on the cool side.
4. Stress. A new enclosure, too much handling, or an incompatible tankmate can suppress appetite. It typically resolves once things settle down.
5. Breeding season. Both sexes may eat less during courtship, and gravid females often eat less as they near egg-laying.
6. Prey boredom. Some geckos lose interest in a repeated feeder insect and pick back up once offered something different.
7. Illness or impaction. If appetite loss comes with bloating, straining, loose stools, discoloration, poor shedding, or shrunken eyes, that points to a medical cause rather than a normal cycle.

When to Worry

Sources don't agree on one exact day count here, estimates for "still probably fine" range from about two weeks up to a month for a healthy adult with a plump tail. Rather than counting days, watch the tail itself: it's the gecko's fat reserve, and a noticeable thinning over a couple of weeks is the clearest concrete warning sign, regardless of what day you're on.

See a reptile-experienced vet if refusal comes with any of these: a visibly thinning tail, lethargy beyond normal brumation behavior, bloating, straining to defecate, discolored skin, poor or incomplete shedding, sunken eyes, or wrinkled, dehydrated-looking skin. Weighing the gecko every couple of weeks during a suspected brumation period is a good way to catch real weight loss early, since brumating geckos shouldn't be losing significant body mass even while eating less.

Since a leopard gecko eats nothing but insects, what those insects ate first does most of the nutritional work, see our gut-loading feeder insects guide for the full breakdown.

For what all of this costs, see the Leopard Gecko cost guide. For handling, see the handling guide, and the rest of their health needs in the health issues guide.

The enrichment guide covers hunting and foraging presentation beyond a plain feeding dish. For more, browse the Geckos care guide category.

Sources & Further Reading