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Reptiles 7/16/2026 6 min read

Leopard Gecko Tank Setup: What Your Gecko Actually Needs

Leopard geckos have a reputation for being low-maintenance, and mostly they are, but a few details around humidity and heat placement matter more than the simplicity suggests.

Leopard gecko enclosure with warm hide, cool hide, and humid hide setup

Leopard Gecko Tank Setup: What Your Gecko Actually Needs

Leopard geckos have a reputation for being low-maintenance, and setup-wise, they mostly are. But a few details, especially around humidity and heat placement, matter more than the simplicity of the species suggests. This covers the full setup, for a deeper dive on temperature specifically, see our Leopard Gecko Temperature Guide, and for the full care picture, see our Leopard Gecko care guide.

Enclosure Size

36x18x18 inches (or a 20-gallon long) is the minimum for an adult, and bigger is always fine. Hatchlings can start in something as small as a 10-gallon while they're small. Leopard geckos are terrestrial and ground-dwelling, so floor space matters more than height. Go with a front-opening, well-ventilated enclosure with an escape-proof screen top, and house your gecko alone, they're not a social species and don't do well cohabitating.

Temperature Gradient

  • Warm side/basking: 90 to 95°F surface temperature at the warm hide (some vet sources give a slightly wider ideal range of 82 to 90°F)
  • Cool side: 75 to 80°F
  • Nighttime: A drop to around 70°F is fine and actually healthy, tolerable down to 60°F

Heat comes from an under-tank heat mat placed under the warm hide, always on a thermostat. Never run a heat mat without one, an unregulated mat is a real burn and fire risk. Skip colored night bulbs entirely, they disrupt sleep, use a ceramic heat emitter instead if you need supplemental night heat. See our Leopard Gecko Temperature Guide for the full breakdown on getting this gradient right.

UVB: Optional, But Worth Doing

Leopard geckos don't strictly require UVB the way bearded dragons do, but the research on this has shifted in recent years. Controlled studies have shown that even brief, low-level UVB exposure, as little as two hours a day, measurably raises vitamin D3 levels in leopard geckos through their skin. It's a genuine benefit, not just an aesthetic addition.

If you add UVB, keep the output low: a UVI of 0.5 to 1.5 at the basking spot for normally pigmented geckos, and 0.5 to 0.7 or lower for albino or other less-pigmented morphs, which burn more easily under standard output.

Fun Fact

For years, leopard geckos were assumed to get all the vitamin D3 they needed from diet alone, since they're a crepuscular species that isn't out basking in full sun. More recent research found their skin still synthesizes real, measurable D3 from even brief low-level UVB, which is why the care advice has shifted toward "optional but beneficial" rather than "unnecessary."

Humidity: The Detail People Get Wrong

Keep the general enclosure at 30 to 40% humidity. But separately, and this is the part that matters most, provide a dedicated humid hide at 70 to 80% humidity on the cool or middle side of the enclosure. This one feature prevents the majority of shedding problems in this species, covered in more detail in our Leopard Gecko health issues guide. Don't raise humidity across the whole enclosure to hit that number, that just creates a respiratory infection risk instead.

Substrate

Paper towel, tile, or reptile carpet are the safest choices, especially for anyone newer to the hobby, since they eliminate impaction risk entirely. More experienced keepers sometimes move to bioactive sand or soil setups, but that comes with more nuance to get right. Whatever you use, avoid sand or calcium sand as a beginner substrate, and don't line the humid hide with sphagnum moss or paper towel that could be ingested.

Furnishings

You need three hides, not one:

  • A warm, dry hide
  • A cool, dry hide
  • A humid hide (lined with damp substrate), placed on the cool or middle side

Add a shallow water dish your gecko can climb in and out of easily, refreshed daily, along with some rock or wood for nail filing and light climbing. Run a 12-hour light, 12-hour dark cycle to keep a normal day and night rhythm.

Diet, Briefly

Leopard geckos are insectivores, crickets, mealworms, and dubia roaches are all solid staples, with the occasional waxworm or hornworm as a treat. Dust feeders with calcium 3 to 4 times a week for juveniles and breeding females, 2 to 3 times a week for adults, and skip vitamin D3 in the supplement unless a vet specifically recommends it. Gut-load your feeder insects before offering them. Hatchlings and juveniles eat daily, adults every 2 to 3 days.

Once this setup is dialed in, see our Leopard Gecko handling guide for building a good relationship with a well-settled gecko, or browse the rest of our Geckos care guide category.


Sources & Further Reading

  • PetMD: Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
  • Gould, A., et al. (2018). "A comparison of blood vitamin D and ionized calcium concentrations in leopard geckos exposed to UV light or dietary vitamin D." Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery, 28(1-2), 34-39.
  • Oonincx, D.G.A.B., et al. Wageningen University research on cutaneous vitamin D3 synthesis in leopard geckos under UVB exposure.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

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Written by Mike

Mike is the founder of Beastly Facts and a lifelong reptile enthusiast. He shares his home with Dex, a bearded dragon with strong opinions about crickets and basking schedules. Mike writes in-depth care guides, animal facts, and the occasional short story about life with exotic pets.

More about Mike →

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No Stomach, No Problem

Seahorses have no stomach at all, so food passes through them so quickly that they must graze almost constantly, some species eating thousands of tiny shrimp a day just to survive. They're also famously bad swimmers, fluttering a tiny dorsal fin up to 35 times a second just to inch forward.

- Seahorse