Blue Tongue Skink
Lizards
Beastly Facts · Updated
The chunky, blue-tongued charmer who loves a good meal!
On This Page▾
Did you know? Blue tongue skinks give live birth instead of laying eggs, and they are one of the largest skink species kept as pets.
The first week
The numbers a new owner needs in the first week, each from the article it links to. Rows with no link come from the encyclopedia.
- Day one
- Quarantine 3 to 6 months on plain paper towel away from other reptiles, with a vet check and fresh fecal sample within two weeks. The display enclosure gets its deep substrate; quarantine does not.Quarantine guide →
- Which skink is it
- Northerns are almost all captive-bred. Indonesians are mostly wild-caught and commonly carry parasites, which changes almost everything below.Health guide →
- Enclosure
- 4x2x2 feet minimum for either type, front-opening PVC over glass since it holds humidity, with a solid hide and a water dish big enough to submerge in.Setup guide →
- Basking surface
- Northern 105 to 115°F, Indonesian 100 to 105°F, from a halogen or deep heat projector on a thermostat. Cool side 70 to 80°F, nights above roughly 70°F for both.Setup guide →
- Humidity
- Northern around 40%. Indonesian 60 to 80%, from moisture-retentive substrate, misting, and a larger water bowl.Setup guide →
- Floor
- 4 to 6 inches of a soil mix, roughly 60% topsoil to 40% play sand for a Northern, with leaf litter, sphagnum, or coco fiber added for an Indonesian.Setup guide →
- UVB
- A T5 HO at 5 to 12% depending on hanging height, over half the warm side, replaced every 12 months, with the skink no closer than about 10 inches. An 11 to 13 hour photoperiod.Setup guide →
- Diet ratio
- Under about 12 months, 70 to 80% animal matter. Adults shift to 40 to 60% animal protein, 45 to 60% greens and vegetables, 5 to 10% fruit.Feeding guide →
- Feeding schedule
- Babies daily with one fast day a week, juveniles 3 to 4 times a week. For adults, veterinary guidance says every 1 to 3 days while once or twice a week circulates widely; the portion is one skull-sized meal, about 1 to 2 tablespoons.Feeding guide →
- Supplements and weight
- Calcium on the feeders, a multivitamin more sparingly. Weigh weekly on a gram scale: a loss of 7 to 10% of body weight is the urgent threshold.Feeding guide →
- Settling in
- A captive-bred skink settles in about 2 weeks; a wild-caught Indonesian can take up to 2 months, hiding and refusing food. Later, brumation is the biggest normal cause of a skink that stops eating for a few months.Feeding guide →
- Handling
- Leave a new skink 2 to 3 weeks, then 5 minutes a day, adding a minute each time it sits still, up to 15. Come in from the side, slide a hand under, support it along your forearm, never by the tail.Handling guide →
- Reading the animal
- Short huffs mean annoyance, tail flicking irritation, long hisses with a puffed, tilted body aggression. At every step: stop and end the session.Handling guide →
- Legal check
- Cleared in 46 of 52 jurisdictions. Hawaii and the District of Columbia do not allow one, New Jersey and West Virginia require a permit, and Minnesota and Maine attach conditions.Legal guide →
- Budget
- Northerns $150 to $250, morphs to $400 to $700; Indonesians $100 to $250. Setup $335 to $830, then about $41 to $69 a month. A routine exam runs $100 to $150, and a wild-caught Indonesian needs a fecal exam and deworming at purchase.Cost guide →
- Lifespan
- 15 to 20 years in captivity, some past 30.Cost guide →
- Adult size
- 17-24 inches (43-60 cm).
- Power outage
- The night low stays above about 70°F. Below that, add heat, move the animal, or call ahead to a sitter.Emergency plan →
Emergency card
Call the vet now if you see any of these.
- A soft or rubbery jaw, a kinked spine, tremors, or difficulty walking: bone disease, irreversible once advanced
- Nasal or oral discharge, bubbling, open-mouth breathing, or wheezing
- Retained shed on the toes or tail, or belly scale rot, that has progressed to infection
Book a vet visit promptly for these.
- A wild-caught or unspecified-origin skink that has not had a fecal exam and deworming
Early respiratory cases often resolve once temperature and humidity are corrected; advanced ones need antibiotics.
Where to go next
How Much Does a Blue-Tongued Skink Really Cost?
What the animal costs, why a Northern costs more than an Indonesian, the setup table, the annual running total, and vet costs.
Blue-Tongued Skink Enclosure Setup: Northern vs. Indonesian, the Difference That Actually Matters
The 4x2x2 ft minimum, and the temperature and humidity split that makes a Northern and an Indonesian two different setups.
How to Handle a Blue-Tongued Skink
The bluff display, the huff scale, how to pick a heavy lizard up, and how long a session should run.
Common Blue-Tongued Skink Health Issues and What Causes Them
Metabolic bone disease, the parasite load that comes with a wild-caught animal, respiratory infection, obesity, retained shed and scale rot.
Blue Tongue Skink Feeding: Schedule, Diet, and Why They Stop Eating
Schedule by age, the protein-to-greens flip, the portion size, the toxic list, and eight reasons a skink stops eating.
Blue Tongue Skink Enrichment: Mealworms Made Them Hide Less
The mealworm study that reduced hiding, scatter feeding, the dig box, and the priority order to build in.
What to buy
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Underlined items are paid Amazon links, at no extra cost to you.
Prices and the reasoning behind each item are in How Much Does a Blue-Tongued Skink Really Cost?.
Full Blue Tongue Skink gear listFrequently Asked Questions
Do Northern and Indonesian skinks need different temperatures?
Yes, slightly. Northern basking surface should run 105 to 115°F, Indonesian basking surface a bit cooler at 100 to 105°F. Both need a cool side of 70 to 80°F and nighttime temperatures staying above roughly 70°F.
Is the cheaper Indonesian skink the better budget choice?
Not usually. Wild-caught Indonesian skinks frequently need a fecal exam and deworming right after purchase, which Northern buyers typically skip, and they take longer to tame. For a first-time keeper, a captive-bred Northern often works out to a comparable total cost with meaningfully lower risk.
What is the first sign of metabolic bone disease in a blue-tongued skink?
A soft or rubbery jaw is often the first thing owners notice, followed by a kinked spine, tremors, and difficulty walking in more advanced cases. It's caused by inadequate UVB and or calcium. This is a vet situation always, and advanced cases are irreversible, which is exactly why UVB and calcium supplementation matter from day one.
Subscribe - it's free
New care guides straight to your inbox. No spam.
Deep Dive
🦎 How Much Does a Blue-Tongued Skink Really Cost?
🦎 How to Handle a Blue-Tongued Skink
🦎 Common Blue-Tongued Skink Health Issues and What Causes Them
🦎 Blue-Tongued Skink Enclosure Setup: Northern vs. Indonesian, the Difference That Actually Matters
🦎 Blue Tongue Skink Feeding: Schedule, Diet, and Why They Stop Eating
🦎 Blue Tongue Skink Enrichment: Mealworms Made Them Hide Less
Health and More
🔌 Reptile Emergency Plan: Power Outages, Travel, and Pet Sitters
💧 Reading Reptile Stool, Urates, and Hydration: A Daily Health Check
🧼 Salmonella and Reptile Hygiene: The Rules That Actually Matter
🌡️ Reptile Heating and Thermostats: Preventing Burns
🧫 Reptile Quarantine: Why New Snakes and Lizards Need Months, Not Weeks
🦎 Understanding Reptile Shedding (Ecdysis)
Explore More