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Invertebrates5 min read

Jumping Spider Enclosure Setup: Small, Simple, and All About Humidity

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Small vertical jumping spider enclosure with coconut fiber substrate, climbing branches, and a hygrometer
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Jumping spider setups are small, inexpensive, and simple once you understand the one factor that matters most: keeping humidity consistent.

Enclosure Size

A minimum of about 4 by 4 by 7 inches, vertically oriented, works for an adult, and something closer to 8 to 10 inches tall gives more genuine climbing room. This is an arboreal species, up and down space matters more than floor area. Use a front-opening design with cross-ventilation, and house one spider per enclosure, they're cannibalistic toward each other.

A tall, vertical enclosure like the Exo Terra Nano fits these proportions well. Furnish it with a few pieces of small cork bark or artificial plants, reptile-scale cork bark is oversized for an enclosure this small, so a piece actually sized for the space matters. These also give your spider anchor points to build its silk retreat against.

Temperature

72 to 82F suits this species well, and normal room temperature is usually fine without any supplemental heat at all. If your space runs consistently below about 70F, a thermostat-controlled heat mat on the side wall works, but never place heat under the substrate, and never run one without a thermostat.

Humidity: The Factor That Matters Most

Target 50 to 60% for Phidippus species like the regal jumping spider, tropical genera need more. Mist one corner of the enclosure every 2 to 3 days with dechlorinated water, using a fine mist spray bottle, and aim to leave drinkable droplets rather than soaking everything. Track it with a digital hygrometer rather than guessing. Good ventilation matters here too, humidity without airflow invites mold.

Fun Fact

Checking a jumping spider's abdomen, plump versus shrunken, is genuinely the best quick daily indicator of its overall health, since so many of this species' health issues trace back to humidity and hydration.

Substrate

Coconut fiber, or a coconut fiber and sphagnum moss blend, about an inch or two deep, helps buffer humidity swings between mistings. Avoid sand or vermiculite, and skip using bare paper towel as a long-term substrate, it doesn't hold moisture well enough.

Lighting

This species is diurnal and genuinely relies on vision to hunt, so provide bright ambient light on a normal 12-hour day and night cycle. UVB is not required for this species.

The Non-Obvious Requirement: Leave Room Near the Top

Jumping spiders build their silk retreat near the top of the enclosure, so it's worth positioning your access opening lower or to the side. One more useful habit: check your spider's abdomen regularly, its condition, plump versus shrunken, is the best quick daily indicator of overall health.

This setup runs noticeably smaller and simpler than most invertebrate enclosures. Height is what matters here, while a tarantula or an emperor scorpion is a ground animal that needs floor space and substrate depth instead.


Sources & Further Reading

โ“ Frequently Asked Questions

What size enclosure does a jumping spider need?

About 4 by 4 by 7 inches, oriented vertically, is the minimum for an adult, and 8 to 10 inches tall gives real climbing room. Arboreal species: height counts for more than floor.

What temperature and humidity does a jumping spider need?

72 to 82F suits this species well, and normal room temperature is usually fine without any supplemental heat. Target 50 to 60% humidity for Phidippus species like the regal jumping spider, misting one corner every 2 to 3 days with dechlorinated water.

Can I house more than one jumping spider together?

No. House one spider per enclosure, they're cannibalistic toward each other.

What substrate is best for a jumping spider enclosure?

Coconut fiber, or coconut fiber blended with sphagnum moss, an inch or two deep, which buffers humidity between mistings. No sand or vermiculite, and bare paper towel dries out too fast for long-term use.

Does a jumping spider need UVB lighting?

No, UVB is not required for this species. It does need bright ambient light on a normal 12-hour day and night cycle, since it's diurnal and relies on vision to hunt.

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Written by Michael Ryan

Mike keeps two rescued bearded dragons, Dex and Cera, and writes the care guides on BeastlyFacts from his own research and mistakes. He is not a veterinarian.

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